GAS BARBECUE FAQS
Q. I see what I think is peeling paint inside the lid of my barbecue! What should I do?
A. Don't worry, it is not paint; the inside surfaces of our barbecue lids are not painted, they are coated with baked-on porcelain enamel—a glass finish which cannot peel. What you are noticing is a deposit of grease and smoke that collects during normal use. During use, the grease and smoke vapours slowly oxidise into carbon and collect on the inside of your lid. This deposit will eventually peel, and looks very similar to paint. The peeling grease normally starts in the centre of the lid and spreads outward. It may come off in sheets or flakes, and is shiny on one side and dull on the other. These carbon deposits are non-toxic, but you might want to regularly remove the build-up. Fortunately, the peeling is easy to remove. Simply brush off all loose particles with a brass brush or crumpled aluminium foil before you start grilling. To prevent future build-up, after every grilling session, while the barbecue lid is warm-not hot-wipe it with paper towels or a mild soap-and-water solution.
Q. My LP (liquid propane) gas barbecue won't get hotter than 120 to 150°C, even with all burners on high. Why?
A. Many Europeans are accustomed to grilling on an “open” barbecue, that is, a barbecue without the lid. This is the norm in Europe and can easily create this problem. Weber® gas barbecues are designed for use with the lid closed when grilling. This both conserves fuel use and shortens grilling time. If the problem persists, you may have a barbecue that is not set to your local liquid propane or butane settings. This can happen if the barbecue is transported out of a region for which its valves and regulators are set, and moved to a region with different norms. For assistance, please contact your local Weber® dealer or Weber's local distributor (see Contact Us for an international distributor list).
Since 1995, all regulators (the part that attaches to the gas tank to regulate the flow of gas) have included a safety device that restricts the gas flow in the event of a gas leak. But, you can inadvertently activate the safety device without having a gas leak. This typically occurs if you open the LP tank valve rapidly, or if one or more of the burner control knobs is in an open position when opening the LP tank valve. If you do activate the gas regulator safety device, the gas barbecue will only reach temperatures between 120 and 150°C even with all burners on the high setting.
To reset the gas regulator safety device:
• Close the LP tank valve.
• Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position.
• Disconnect the regulator from the LP tank.
• Open the lid of the barbecue.
• Turn burner control knobs to HIGH.
• Wait at least 1 minute.
• Turn burner control knobs OFF.
• Wait at least five minutes if the barbecue has been lit.
• Re-connect the regulator to the LP tank.
• SLOWLY turn the LP tank valve all the way open.
• With the lid open, turn the front burner control knob to the HIGH position (for Summit® gas barbecues, turn on the left burner in the selected Heat Zone).
• Ignite the barbecue by pushing the crossover® ignition button several times.
• After the front burner is lit, turn the middle burner control knob (if your barbecue has three burners) and then the rear burner control knob to the HIGH position. (For Summit® gas barbecues, turn on the right burner)
• Close the barbecue lid.
The barbecue should reach 260 to 290 degrees C in 10-15 minutes.
To keep the regulator flow valve from tripping again, when you are done grilling always:
• Turn all burner control knobs to the OFF position
• Turn off the LP tank valve last
Q. My barbecue won't light. What could be the reason?
A. If you can light the barbecue with a match you may have an ignition switch problem. Check your igniter switch. Is it making a clicking noise? If the igniter does not click, it is not aligned correctly with the grey rocker switch. To align it, remove the control panel (consult your owner's manual for instructions). Once the control panel is removed, check the position of the igniter. It should be tightly secured with the lock nut in the smaller hole of the keyhole frame. If the igniter is aligned properly, make sure the control panel is not loose. There should be two fasteners holding the panel in place.
Next, check to see if the igniter wires are loose. The white and black wires should be secured at both ends. Then check the position of the metal tab protruding from the cooking box where the white wire attaches. This tab must be 45 degrees away from the cooking box to avoid a shorted spark.
Finally, very humid or rainy weather can cause moisture to collect on the end of the probe and make the igniter unable to spark. To remedy this condition, light the barbecue with a match. The heat from the barbecue will warm the probe and should fix the problem.
If you cannot light the barbecue with a match you probably have a gas flow problem. Have you cleaned your burner tubes recently? It is very important that the portholes of the burner tubes are clear of any blockage. If the gas flow is restricted, the igniter will struggle to light. To clean your tubes, brush the portholes with a steel wire brush in an up and down motion. This cleaning should be part of your routine maintenance.
If you are still having problems, please contact your local Weber® dealer or Weber's head office on 01756 692600.
Q. My Flavorizer® Bars need a cleaning. Any tips?
A. Maintaining your Flavorizer® bars is simple and easy. Regularly doing the burn-off/brush routine should keep your Flavorizer® bars clean. Start by doing a burn-off (turning all burners on high for 15 minutes with the lid closed) before or after grilling. (If you have cast iron grates, remove before burning off.) This will turn the accumulated debris on your Flavorizer® bars into ashes. Then when the grates are cool, lift them out and brush off the bars with a brass brush. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary, take the bars out of the barbecue, put them in the sink and clean with some soapy water and an abrasive pad. If using dishwashing liquid in the water, do not use anything lemon-based. Rinse thoroughly and towel dry. Do not let them drip dry, as this may cause them to rust prematurely. We do not recommend putting Flavorizer® bars in the dishwasher. The amount of debris they release may cause your drain to clog.
Q. How do I use the thermometer that came with my Weber® barbecue? Can I leave it in the food while grilling?
A. Because your thermometer is an instant-read, you cannot leave it in food while it’s cooking; the glass face could shatter. It is a dual-purpose thermometer designed to be used as a probe to quickly gauge the internal temperature of cooking meats and to monitor the cooking temperature inside the barbecue. Allow a few seconds for the temperature to register; the needle will slow and stop briefly at the correct reading. After each reading, return the thermometer to its place in the lid.
Here’s how to get an accurate read on different foods:
• Steaks and chops: Insert probe through side of meat so that tip is in the centre of meat.
• Roasts: Insert probe so tip is in centre of meat but not touching fat or bone.
• Turkey breast: Insert probe so tip is in thickest part of breast.
• Whole turkey: Insert probe so tip is in thickest part of thigh but not touching bone.
Q. What’s the difference between Direct and Indirect cooking?
A. Direct cooking is simply grilling foods directly over the heat source. For Indirect cooking the heat source is placed to the side of the food, not directly under it. As a general rule, foods that take less than 25 minutes to cook, like boneless chicken breasts, pork chops, and steak are grilled by the Direct Method. Foods that require longer cooking times at lower temperatures, like whole birds and roasts, should be cooked by the Indirect Method. You can use either method on both Weber® charcoal barbecues and Weber® gas barbecues. For complete instructions, see Direct/Indirect Cooking instructions.
Q. There are flecks in the colour finish of my barbecue. Why is that?
A. Some Weber® barbecues have a little bit of black flecking in the coloured finish of their porcelain lid for shading purposes.
Q. Which are better, cast iron or porcelain-enamel cooking grates?
A. Both grate types have their merits, so it is mostly a matter of personal preference. Cast iron grates give you better sear marks, hold the heat longer so you don't have to cook with higher temperatures, and have a longer warranty, but require more maintenance. Porcelain grates are durable, give wide grill marks and require less maintenance.
Q. How do I care for my cast iron cooking grates? They have rust on them.
A. To maintain the wonderful searing/grilling performance of your cast iron grates, as well as their longevity, some special care is required. As with any cast iron cooking tool, proper seasoning is most important.
First time use: Before using a cast iron grate, wash it thoroughly with a mild washing up liquid to remove the protective wax coating applied for shipping. Rinse with hot water and dry completely with a soft cloth or paper towel. NEVER ALLOW TO RINSE DRY, OR WASH IN A DISHWASHER. Now season the grates to prevent rust and sticking.
Seasoning: A solid vegetable oil is recommended for the initial seasoning. Spread a thin coating of solid vegetable shortening over the entire surface, including all corners, with a paper towel. Do not use salted fats such as butter or margarine. Proceed as follows:
Gas barbecues: Preheat barbecue for 15 minutes; place grates in barbecue. Turn burners to Medium-Off-Medium with lid closed. Allow barbecue to heat grates for 1 to 1.5 hours. Turn all burners to OFF, and leave cooking grates in barbecue until they are cool.
Charcoal: Arrange prepared coals for Indirect Method. Place cooking grate in barbecue; place lid on barbecue. Allow barbecue to heat grate for 1 to 1.5 hours. Close vents to extinguish coals, leaving grate in barbecue until it is cool.
Your cast iron cooking grates are now ready to use. To prevent rusting, they should be re-seasoned frequently, particularly when new. If rust occurs, clean with a steel brush. Reapply vegetable shortening and heat as indicated above.
Maintenance (every time you grill): Don’t do a burn-off after you grill, but rather leave the cooking residues on the grates to keep a protective coating on the cast iron. Then do a burn-off just before you grill. Brush off charred residues with a steel brush rather than a brass brush.
Notes: The more you use your cast iron grates, the easier the maintenance will be. If you store your grates for extended periods of time, grease very lightly with vegetable shortening, then wipe dry with a paper towel. Store in a dry place. If rust appears, it is an indication that the grates have not been seasoned properly or enough. Or, if the burn-off method has been used after grilling, the seasoning has also been burned off. You must begin the seasoning process again, after brushing all rust away with a steel wire brush.
Q. I noticed what looks like frost on my regulator. Is this normal?
A. If your liquid propane tank has recently been filled and you notice frost on the body of the regulator, you may have an overfilled tank. If this is the case:
1. Turn off the barbecue.
2. Call the supplier that filled your tank and explain the situation. If they are unable to help, call your local fire department and tell them you may have an overfilled tank.
3. Call your local Weber dealer. The regulator may have been damaged and needs to be replaced.
Q. A funny noise is coming from my barbecue. What should I do?
A. Rushing noise: Immediately after turning on the gas tank valve, you may hear a "rushing" noise. This is just gas rushing into the supply hose and manifold.
Groaning or metallic cracking and popping: As Flavorizer® Bars, burner tubes, and cooking grates heat and cool, they expand and contract, causing these sounds.
Fluttering noise: If the slide-out bottom tray is not fully pushed into place, excess air may be drawn into the cooking box, causing a "fluttering" sound. The burner tubes and Crossover® ignition may also cause this sound when the lid is open and air is drawn into the cooking box from above. Finally, the flame in the Crossover® ignition tube may fluctuate after ignition, which will cause a fluttering sound.
Humming or whistling from the regulator: Outside temperature, humidity, barometric pressure and the gas level within the tank may cause the rubber diaphragm inside the regulator to vibrate, making a humming or whistling sound. Although this sound may be alarming, this is NOT dangerous as long as it is not accompanied by the smell of gas. Simply adjust the burner settings and usually the sound will subside. If the humming sound persists, a change in atmospheric conditions will eventually stop the vibration.
Q. I think my liquid propane tank may have a leak. What should I do?
A. If you see, smell, or hear gas escaping from the liquid propane tank and it is not attached to the barbecue:
1. Move the tank away from the house or anything combustible.
2. Call your liquid propane dealer or the tank manufacturer and follow their recommendations on how to correct the problem.
If it is attached to the barbecue:
1. Disconnect the hose from the tank.
2. Move the tank away form the house or anything combustible.
3. Call your liquid propane dealer or the tank manufacturer and follow their recommendations on how to correct the problem.
Q. My gas barbecue will not light in cold weather.
A. Weber® gas barbecues are designed to use liquid propane gas, which is a much more stable gas at both low and high outside temperatures than butane. You can use butane or liquid propane/butane mix but the performance of the barbecue at temperature extremes will be reduced. If the barbecue will not light at temperatures below 0°C, turn the barbecue off and purchase a tank of liquid propane gas only. Liquid propane will operate smoothly at extremely low and high temperatures.